Slioche Socks knitting pattern!

I have written a brioche sock pattern, and decided to provide it for free in blog form!
Full disclosure: I am no brioche expert! (but I have made many pairs of socks). I started last year with the West Knits Building Blocks KAL, and went on to complete a Woolgasm Vortex Cowl. This gave me the brioche bug, and so I went searching for a pair of brioche socks. I found this fantastic pattern, but I chickened out last minute, I had even selected my yarn! But the pattern looked super complicated with charts and all sorts. So I just cast on a pair of socks and started brioche stitching. Ideas formed in my head, and we come to the pattern we have today.

So, as long as you can knit, and you are willing to learn, you can do this. It’s very simple brioche stitches, no brioche increases or decreases. And a great way to learn brioche.

The pattern is called Slioche, because they are slouchy brioche socks! It is fully adaptable, to whichever way you prefer to knit socks. If you don’t like my heel style, for instance, you can choose a different one.

I made these in both toe up and top down. I am more confident with toe up, and I personally think the toe up version sits much better, so I do recommend using that. However, you can do as you feel comfortable, which is why I went with both versions.
I have colour coordinated the sections so that you know what you are looking at; Pattern info is pink! Toe up pattern is purple! Top down pattern is blue!

This is also my first pattern written for public use, so please let me know if you have any issues or don’t understand. I haven’t had it tested, but I did make these 3 times!! So any input is great.

Please remember to show me if you make these! And if you need yarn advice, just ask.

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 Yarn and such: 

Any sock weight yarn will do! I would say 150g max. But I used:

Colour A) The Captain & Lovely: Alpaca/merino/nylon sock about 80g. (The size I made was a UK size 5-5.5)

Colour B) Undyed/ecru alpaca/merino/nylon sock (about 30-40g)

2.5mm 80cm circular needles, using magic loop.

A removable stitch marker and one knitting marker.

A darning needle and scrap yarn.

Abbreviations.

K = Knit (Obviously!)

P = Purl (Sorry, I know you know this!)

M1 = Make one. This is just an increase, you can use an increase of choice, but I like the “make 1” increase.

K2TOG = Knit 2 stitches together.

P2TOG = Purl 2 stitched together.

SSP = Slip slip purl.

SSK = Slip slip knit. 

BrP= Brioche purl (purl the slipped stitch from previous round, including it’s little yarn over friend) “Burp”

BrK = Brioche knit (knit the slipped stitch from previous round, including it’s little yarn over friend) “Bark”

SL1YO = Slip 1 with yarn over (bring yarn to the front of your work, insert needle into the stitch as if to purl and slip the stitch onto the right needle whilst bringing the yarn over that stitch to the back.) “Sl-ee-yo!”

Here’s a short video showing you how to work the brioche stitches. Don’t laugh! I am bad at making videos!

Toe Up Pattern

Toe:

Colour A: Cast on 16 ST using Judy’s Magic Cast On, or toe up cast on of your choice. (you now have 16 stitches on each needle, giving you 32 stitches altogether). The image shown uses colour B as a contrast toe, and I switched to colour A after the increases. You can do this if you wish, or just work a solid foot.

R1) Place marker for beginning of round, K1, M1, Knit to 2 stitches before end of needle, M1, K1. Repeat on second needle.

R2) Knit round.

Repeat R1 & 2 until you have 64 stitches or your preferred amount for your foot width. 

Foot:

Knit in the round and keep working up the foot until your sock gets to the bit where your foot meets your ankle. This is usually about 9cm off total foot length for me, but it can differ from person to person. If you have a sock ruler, you can use that too. If you are making for someone else, here is a good link for sizing and measuring (sorry, it’s in US sizes). 

Heel:

This is where the magic starts! I use the Fleegle Heel, it is super simple and really comfortable. But you can use whichever heel you feel most comfortable with (but seriously, this heel is amazing).

You are still knitting in the round, as there is no flap with the toe up pattern. 

  • K1, M1, knit to 2 stitches before the end of the needle, M1, K1. Knit instep needle (you always knit instep needle, no increases needed).
  • Knit around (both needles)Repeat the last 2 rounds, increasing on every other round, until your gusset needle (the one you have been increasing) counts 2 fewer stitches than your total cast on number. (In my case, it was 62 stitches, with a starting stitch count of 64. Giving me a total of 94 stitches altogether)

Now you can turn the heel!!

Count to the halfway mark on your gusset needle and place a removable stitch marker there. 

  • Knit to the marker, slip marker, K2, K2TOG, K1, turn.
  • Slip 1 purlwise, purl to marker, remove marker (or keep if you are unsure), P2, SSP, P1, turn.
  • Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, knit the stitch before and after the gap together, K1, turn.
  • Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, purl the stitch before and after the gap together, P1, turn.

You get the idea? Continue the last 2 rows until all your stitches are eaten up apart from one each end. Here’s what you do with those lonely stitches, in order to avoid holes.

  • On the knit row, knit across to the last 3 stitches, K2TOG, K1, then start knitting in the round again by picking up the instep needle.
  • Once you are back to the heel needle (beginning of round), you still have that one spare stitch left, so K1, K2TOG, then carry on in the round!

Count your stitches, do you still have 2 spare? No problem, just decrease them on the following round until you have 64 stitches (or the correct number of stitches you started with!). There!! You’ve got a heel and a foot!!

Carry on knitting round until your sock comes just over your ankle. This is a deep heel, so you may not need any extra rows.

Now the fun starts….

Brioche leg!!!

OK, this is where I took a deep breath whilst writing this, it’s like explaining long division to a 6yo. I have had to check and check and double check, because although I know how to do it, explaining it clearly is another thing entirely!! You will start using colour B now, or you can do solid one colour brioche. Do not cut colour A.

This is the most important information within this pattern: Install a lifeline now!!!
Lifeline is a really important part of knitting if you aren’t sure what you are doing. I often add them throughout a new pattern. It’s just a bit of thread that will hold your place if you need to frog back. If you know how to brioche and you are feeling cocky, then knit on!

  • Brioche set up. Using colour B: *P1, SL1YO* (make sure you bring the yarn to the back, which creates a yarn over shawl on the slipped stitch, see video at top) continue in this pattern around.
  • Using colour A: *SL1YO, BRK,* continue in this pattern around.
  • Using colour B: *BRP, SL1YO* continue in this pattern around.

DSC_0259-01
Here you can see the knit or purl stitch (this is the single stitch by itself), and then the slip/yo stitch (this is the white stitch with the blue laying over the top of it)

That’s it! You are brioching!! You are doing it!! (Are you doing it?). Continue the last 2 rows up the leg until it is at desired length. I recommend going for as long as you possibly can, because of the slouchy nature of the socks. The longer the leg, the more slouch. Try the sock on often, and remember that you have a cuff to add too. Colour A is knit, colour B is purl, use this to remember what you are doing. 

Once you have your leg at the desired length, you can start the cuff:

On what would be a BRK round, *K1, then BRK the brioche stitch as one*. Continue around.

If you wish to do contrasting cuffs, switch to colour B and break colour A. If you wish to use colour A as the cuff, break colour B.

Cuff:

Work a K1,P1 rib until your cuff is desired length. I like mine to be at least 2cm, and with the slouchy nature of these socks, the longer the better.

Break yarn, remove lifeline and sew in ends. Don’t forget the toe ends and the ankle ends where you added colour B. 

You are done!! Congrats!!!

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Top Down Pattern!

Cuff

CO 64 (Or however many stitches you need for your foot width). I like to use a stretchy twisted German cast on.

Work a K1,P1 rib until your cuff is desired length. I like mine to be at least 2cm, and with the slouchy nature of these socks, the longer the better. I used a contrasting colour for the cuffs (Colour B), but you can use the same colour throughout the sock.

You lucky lucky lot! Top down knitters get straight into the brioche part!! At this point I would suggest putting in a Lifeline. However,  you have only done a cuff. If you are OK with starting over, then I wouldn’t bother. But if you are precious about your cuff, pop a little lifeline in to save it should you go wrong. 

Brioche leg:

  • Brioche set up. Using colour B: *P1, SL1YO* (make sure you bring the yarn to the back, which creates a yarn over shawl on the slipped stitch, see video at top) continue in this pattern around.
  • Using colour A: *SL1YO, BRK,* continue in this pattern around.
  • Using colour B: *BRP, SL1YO* continue in this pattern around.

Continue the last 2 rows up the leg until it is at desired length. I recommend going for as long as you possibly can, because of the slouchy nature of the socks. The longer the leg, the more slouch. Try the sock on often to check the length, the brioche stops just above the ankle (for reference).

Once your brioche section is at your desired length, you will need to knit a few rounds. So on what would be a BRK round, *K1, then BRK the brioche stitch as one*. Continue around.

Knit until you have 2-3cm of stockinette stitch.

Heel

You can choose any heel you like, or use my heel.

You are working on one needle only in a back and forth garter stitch row. Make sure you have half the stitches on each needle (32 in my case).

  • R1 (knit side). SL1, knit across to the end of row, turn.
  • R2 (purl side). SL1, purl across to the end of row, turn.

Continue this back and forth until you have knit 32 rows or half your total circumference stitches. You can count up the slipped BOR stitches to find out how many rows you have knit, you need half the heel flap total number (so mine was 16).

Turning the heel

  • R1) K16, SSK, K1, turn.
  • R2) SL1, P1, P2TOG, P1, turn.
  • R3) SL1, K2, SSK, K1, turn.
  • R4) SL1, P3, P2TOG, P1, turn.

Continue in the way, knitting or purling one extra stitch after the previous slipped stitch until you’ve got no stitches left to work. (So next row would be K4, then P5, etc etc). You should end on a purl round.

Gusset!!

You’re working in the round again now. 

  • R1) Knit across the heel to the end of the needle. Place marker (marker 1). Pick up 16 stitches along the side of the flap, and an additional stitch just before the instep needle to prevent any holes (don’t worry, this will be decreased).
    Knit across the instep needle. 

    Pick up an additional stitch between the instep needle and the flap, and then pick up 16 stitches along the side of the flap. Place another marker (marker 2). Knit along the heel to marker.

  • R2) K1, SSK, knit to 3 stitches before marker 2, K2TOG, K1, knit across the heel to marker 1.
  • R3) Knit around.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have only 64 stitches remaining or the amount of stitches you started with. 

You’ve done the heel!!! You are on the home straight now. 

Foot.

This is well easy! Just knit all the way down the foot. Actually, not all the way down! You will need to stop once your foot measures around 5cm less than your foot length. This is why I don’t like top down socks! I tend to under estimate the foot length, so a sock ruler would be a good tool to use at this point!

Toe!!!!

This is super easy. Make sure you have 32 stitches on each needle (or the stitches are arranged equally).

  • R1) K1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches on the needle, K2TOG, K1. Repeat this on the second needle.
  • R2) Knit around.

Repeat these two rounds until you have 16 stitches on each needle, then work a decrease round for every round until you have 8 stitched on each needle.

Finish off with kitchener stitch and sew in ends. Make sure you sew in the ends at the ankle where you finished your brioche.

You are done!! Congrats!!

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